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Coherent Structures in Turblent Flow Under Plunging Breaker of Water Waves

机译:波浪破碎器作用下湍流的相干结构

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摘要

In surf zone, wave height and velocity of incoming waves change dramatically. It has been said that the sand transportin the near shore region is mostly occurred in the surf zone. Sawaragi and Iwata(1973) discovered a coherent structure of turbulent flow under plunging breaker, and they named it as ‘Horizontal roller'. They pointed out that a lot of sediment on the sea bottom is curled up towards water surface by the horizontal roller. Clarification of the turbulent structure in breaking waves make advances in developing the physical models of wave breaking and sand transport. But until now, many attempts to measure the velocity field in surf zone, with the LDV or EMC, have been prevented due to a large amount of bubble entrained by plunging of water jet. Nakaza et.al. (1995) succeeded in measuring of the velocity field contained a large amount of bubble under plunging breaker. In this study, by Nakaza's method utilizing a super-miniature proper current meter, the coherent structures in surf zone, particular the horizontal roller, are clarified experimentally. The generation and dissipation of large eddies in the water under plunging breaker are studied, applying Dean's stream function theory to discrete thepotential and velocity components of flow velocity from measured data.
机译:在冲浪区中,波高和入射波的速度会发生巨大变化。有人说,近岸地区的沙子运输主要发生在冲浪区。 Sawaragi和Iwata(1973)在破碎锤的作用下发现了一个湍流的连贯结构,他们将其命名为“水平滚子”。他们指出,海床上的许多沉积物被水平滚子朝着水面卷曲。破浪中湍流结构的澄清在开发破浪和输沙物理模型方面取得了进展。但是直到现在,由于水射流的插入而夹带大量气泡,阻止了使用LDV或EMC测量海浪区域速度场的许多尝试。中座等人(1995)成功地将速度场测量为在破碎锤的作用下含有大量气泡。在这项研究中,通过使用中型超小型电流计的Nakaza方法,通过实验弄清了冲浪区中的连贯结构,特别是水平滚子。应用Dean的流函数理论从测量数据中分离出流速的势和速度分量,研究了在急速破碎机下水中大涡的产生和消散。

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