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Experimental Studies on Breaking Wave Trains generated by Strong Winds on Shallow Water

机译:浅水区强风产生的破碎波列的实验研究

摘要

When strong winds blow over shallow water for a long duration, wind induced currents are generated. At the same time wind waves are evolved on them untill the waves break such as white cups. The heigher the wind wave heights evolve, the more the breaking of waves of particular wave heights and periods resonant with the wind speed may become predominant. At this circumstance the wind acts on the waves as a driving force. As the result of these interaction between winds and waves, we may often observe progressive breaking waves without deformation of their profiles, The breaking phenomena are named the 'Breaking wave trains', The waves are vitally important in studying shore processes, as they deeply concern with near - shore currents and sand drifts in a surf zone.Hydraulic experiments, as the first step to find out properties of the breaking wave trains, were carried out with a recirculating wind wave tank which can reproduce wind - generated random waves accompanied with currents. Wave periods and heights of breaking wave trains correspond to those obtained from the peak frequencies of wind wave power spectra and significant wave heights. The wind - induced currents have an important role in the mass transport in the wave trains. Because of the strong currents, the wave field may be considered as a unidirectional flow, and there exists a critical depth which is nearly equal to the mean depth of the breaking wave trains in a reference frame moving with the wave trains at a speed of the wave celerity. The phase of the wave crest is, hydraulically speaking, subcritical, and that of the wave trough is supercritical in this steady flow system.
机译:当强风长时间吹过浅水时,会产生风感应电流。同时,风浪在它们上面发展,直到风浪破裂,例如白色杯子。风浪高度发展得越快,特定浪高和与风速共振的周期的浪潮越可能占主导地位。在这种情况下,风作为驱动力作用在波浪上。由于风浪之间相互作用的结果,我们可能经常观察到渐进式的破碎波而其轮廓没有变形。这些破碎现象被称为“破碎波列”。由于它们深深地涉及到波浪,因此在研究海岸过程中至关重要水力实验是寻找破浪列车特性的第一步,它是利用循环风波罐进行的水力实验,该罐可以再现风产生的随波流伴生的随机波。 。断裂波列的波周期和高度对应于从风波功率谱的峰值频率和有效波高获得的波周期和高度。风感应电流在波列中的质量传输中起着重要作用。由于强电流,波场可被认为是单向流,并且存在一个临界深度,该临界深度几乎等于以波速移动的参考系中的破碎波列的平均深度。波速。从水力来讲,波峰的相位是亚临界的,而波谷的相位在此稳定流系统中是超临界的。

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