FORMULATION DEVELOPMENT AND NON-INVASIVE INVIVO EVALUATION OF COSMETIC EMULSIONS CONTAINING VARIOUS BOTANICAL EXTRACTS

摘要

The apparent symptoms of skin aging are the result of triggering of free radicals by ultraviolet (UV) light from sun. The conventional therapy composed extremely of herbal formulations to have juvenile, elegant and youthful skin. For the maintainace of proper functions of human skin antioxidants are very vital. For topical application on visual human skin like cheeks, cosmetic W/O emulsions loaded with botanical extracts from various plants were developed by using fewer ingredients and non-invasive in vivo evaluation is on various skin related parameters was performed. The preparation of concentrated botanical extracts from various plants namely tamarind (Tamarindus indica), grape seeds (Vitis vinifera) and soybean (Glycine max) was done by utilizing ethyl alcohol and n-hexane as solvents. These extracts were detected for the antioxidant activity by using DPPH method. Cosmetic waterin-oil emulsion was developed by heating oily and aqueous at 75ºC ±1 ºC and then dispersion of aqueous phase in oily phase was carried out with persistent stirring. The incorporation of botanical extract in aqueous phase before addition in oily phase was done. The preparations of different bases lacking extracts were prepared to be used as control. The emulsions were monitored for stability for the duration of twelve weeks. The evaluation of viscosity, phase separation, liquefaction and color was done by keeping cosmetic emulsions at different conditions of storage at 8 ± 0.5?C, 25± 0.5?C, 40± 0.5?C, and at 40?C ± 0.5?C with 70% RH (relative humidity). The predicted stability of cosmetic emulsions was attained from three months in-vitro study duration. After obtaining written informed consent, selected cosmetic emulsion formulations and their respective bases were handed over to thirty three (11 for each active formulation) healthy male human volunteers for application on respective cheeks for a duration of twelve weeks. Surface evaluation of living skin (SELS) was evaluated by availing Visioscan® VC 98 initially and after application of cosmetic emulsions. Furthermore by the help of Corneometer, Mexameter, Sebumeter and Elastometer, the evaluation of various skin parameters was carried out. By applying paired sample t-tests and two-way analysis of variance (ANOVA) results were assessed statistically. The significant effects (p ? 0.05) produced by the all active cosmetic emulsions formulations on SELS (Surface evaluation of living skin) parameter for example skin roughness (SEr), skin scaliness (SEsc), skin smoothness (SEsm) and skin wrinkles (SEw).The results was strengthened by three dimensional images . Skin elasticity and skin moisture contents were udXXII udincreased significantly supporting the results of parameters of surface evaluation of living skin. A statistically significant difference (p ? 0.05) was assessed for active cosmetic formulations concerning melanin, erythema and skin sebum contents as compared with base formulations. The conclusion of this work is that the stable active cosmetic emulsions formulations containing various botanical extracts exerted significant effects on various skin parameters such as skin whitening effects, anti-acne effects, antiaging effects, and alleviation of skin dryness and improvement of skin complexion.