A STATISTICAL STUDY OF WAVE CONDITIONS AT FOUR OPEN-SEA LOCALITIES IN THE NORTH PACIFIC OCEAN

摘要

The present study of wave conditions in the Pacific Ocean was under¬taken by the Scripps Institution of Oceanography to investigate the following characteristics of the sea and wind which are considered to be of primary importance in the structural design of flying boats and sea-planes:(a) Wave height and frequency of occurrence, (b) wave length-height ratio and frequency of occurrence, (c) wave velocity and its relation to wave lengths, (d) wind velocity, and (e) wave shape.nFor each of four open-sea localities representing conditions for the main regions of the Pacific Ocean, the percentage frequencies of wave heights and wave length-height ratios have been calculated "by use of weather maps and methods developed for forecasting sea and swell. These data have been presented in graphical and tabular forms. Also included in the present paper is the following information:Discussions of the relation between wave velocity and wave length, tabulation of wind-velocity distributions, discussions of wave shape, and examples of the use of the figures. Comparison between computed and observed heights was found to be satisfactory.