Experimental Investigation of Spilling Breakers.

摘要

LONG-TERM GOAL. The long term goal of this project is to elucidate the physics of mirco-scale breaking waves (less than about one meter wavelength) including the effects caused by ambient surfactants. Of particular interest are the physical processes that cause the free surface motions that are the source of radar back scatter from these breaking waves. SCIENTIFIC OBJECTIVES. In order to achieve the above general goals, several more specific objectives must be achieved. The first objective is to develop methods of generating highly repeatable breaking waves in a wave tank as well as methods to control and measure the surfactant levels in the tank. In order to measure the flow phenomena in these breaking waves, systems capable of measuring crest profile histories at high temporal and spatial resolution and of measuring the flow field in the crest must be developed. With the above generation and measurement systems, the dynamics of the waves will be explored. In addition, the wave generation and measurement techniques can be used to provide a test bed for measurements of radar back scattering and to provide surface profile data for radar back scattering calculations. (These calculations and radar measurements are not part of the present contract.)