Wave Groups and Wave Breaking in Random Seas

摘要

The long-term goals of this research are to develop an understanding of wave groups and wave breaking in random seas, including the interrelations between the two. The specific objectives of this project are as follows: (1) Study wave groups and wave breaking, develop a laboratory database using measurements made in the Naval Academy's 380-ft wave/towing tank, and develop appropriate statistical descriptions and theory for the observed phenomena; and (2) Investigate the influence of the laboratory system on measurements. Statistics were derived from laboratory wave records of random seas. Theoretical concepts were established from similarity arguments, general statistical theory, existing theories of wave statistics and wave groups, wave mechanics and extensions to include nonlinear effects. The influence of the laboratory system on measurements is examined by varying the measurement location in the wave tank, by comparison of results with full-scale ocean data, and by comparison with results from computer simulations.