Development and Validation of Depth Inversion Algorithms for Barred- Beaches Based on Nonlinear Properties of Shoaling Waves.

摘要

The long-term goal of this work is to develop methods for predicting the bottom topography in nearshore regions, based on characteristics of (shoaling) surface waves, measured using remote sensing methods. We are particularly interested in the surfzone region, over barred-beaches, where large wave nonlinearity and breaking occur. Earlier work used computations in a Fully Nonlinear Potential Flow model (FNPF) and dealt with monotonous topographies and periodic non-breaking waves (Grilli and Subramanya, 1996; Grilli and Horrillo, 1997; Grilli, 1998). There are 6 objectives in this project, which were listed in last years report. This year, we concentrated on: (2) implementing and calibrating a spilling breaker model in the FNPF model, and globally modeling the energy dissipated by breaking waves in the surfzone. (5) improving the model computational efficiency for large-size/long-term computations. (6) validating both shoaling calculations and depth predictions using field data from Duck SHOWEX experiment, in collaboration with Arete Assoc. (John Dugan and co-workers).