Coastal Dynamics of Heterogeneous Sedimentary Environments: Numerical Modeling of Nearshore Hydrodynamics and Sediment Transport

摘要

This report discusses details of the numerical models used to simulate wave, tide, and wind-driven hydrodynamics and sedimentation in water depths less than 10 m. These simulations have used the Princeton Ocean Model (POM), the Navy Coastal Ocean Model (NCOM), the SWAN wave model, and the Littoral Sedimentation and Optics Model (LSOM). The problems include: (1) nearshore erosion and mass conservation on the shoreface; (2) coastal erosion during a hurricane; (3) sand resuspension and optical characteristics on the shoreface; and (4) barrier island erosion during cold fronts. These results demonstrate several important conclusions: (a) the nearshore is an open system with respect to sediment transport; (b) nearshore hydrodynamics is not always dominated by waves but also relies on winds and tides; (c) very weak processes can have unforeseen impacts over long periods.