Wave Generated Oscillatory Currents Along the Bottom in the Eulittoral and Sublittoral Zones,

摘要

Wave generated oscillatory currents along the ocean floor provide one of the more important forces participating in the erosion, transportation, and deposition of marine sediments. These currents are especially active in the eulitorial zone which ranges from the high tide level to a depth of 150 feet. Significant currents in the sublittoral zone, which continues from the lower border of the eulittoral zone to a depth of 600 feet or the edge of the continental shelf, are generated only by exceptionally long period waves. The effect of these currents has long been of importance to marine geologists and coastal engineers, and their importance can only be enhanced by the increasing amount of instruments and installations being placed on the ocean bottom in these zones. (Author)