Preliminary Studies on the Turbulent Characteristics of Ocean Waves

摘要

This report presents the results of preliminary ocean wave studies made in an endeavor to learn more about the turbulent characteristics of wind waves in the open ocean. A series of hypothetical wave models presented indicate a mechanism of momentum transfer within the waves. Two series of wave motion measurements were made, one from a Navy pier in Narragansett Bay and a second from Buzzards Bay Entrance Light Station. The measurements were made to obtain rough data on particle velocity motions in various sea states and to examine their variances, covariances and respective spectral properties. These preliminary measurements indicated that relatively large amounts of wind-imparted momentum are transferred through the water column by correlations of the wave motions themselves. The values of the variances of the particle motions reflected the strong exponential attenuation with depth. The autospectra clearly displayed the fundamental frequencies of the wind waves and the low frequency swell. The strong attenuations of the wind wave turbulence with depth is contrasted with the weaker attenuation of the swell. (Author)