An International Attempt to Understand Wind Generated OceaN Waves. Part II. Some Results.

摘要

Recent measurements by an international team of scientists has given the following tenative information on the mechanisms of wind wave generation and dissipation: From 30 - 90% of the observed wave growth is accounted for by the nonlinear wave-wave interaction theory of K. Hasselmann (1962, 1963). The simple interpretation of the equilibrium range by Phillips (1958) is not substantiated by the observation. The overshoot effect is clearly observed. From 10 - 20% of the momentum available from the atmosphere is advected with the wave field. Strong wave attenuation occurs in shallow water due to turbulent bottom friction. Secondary results are presented in the text. (Author)