Numerical Models for the Prediction of Wave Set-up and Nearshore Circulation.

摘要

A finite difference model for predicting time-dependent, wave-induced nearshore circulation is discussed. The formulation includes wave refraction, wave-current interaction, an anistropic bottom friction, wave set-up, wind effects and coastal flooding. Results are shown for three cases including: set-up in a wave channel due to steady waves and wave groups, circulation in a rectangular wave tank under oblique wave attack, and for wave and wind induced circulation on a longshore periodic beach. Important results are that tuned wave groups can incite seiching in an enclosed basin and harbors and that rip currents will be induced or maintained by the presence of surf zone channels. (Author)