Computer Algorithm to Calculate Longshore Energy Flux and Wave Direction from a Two Pressure Sensor Array.

摘要

A documented (FORTRAN IV) computer program is discussed as originally written for the CERC Longshore Sand Transport Research Program to analyze wave data collected at Channel Islands Harbor, California. The program performs the basic analysis of two wave gage pressure records necessary to compute wave direction and wave energy at a given frequency and computes the longshore energy flux used in sand transport for the entire energy spectrum of the wave record. This program uses linear wave theory for the wave transformation process and includes the assumption of straight and parallel bottom contours necessary for application of Snell's law of refraction. The necessary steps in an analysis of wave data and sample outputs for some wave records from the Channel Islands wave gage pressure sensor pair are given. The program presently accepts data in the standard CERC magnetic-tape format where record lengths consist of 4,100 values. (Author)