Wave Height Predictions Using Stoke's Second Order Theory.

摘要

The use of subsurface pressure transducers to measure wave heights and been practiced for the past forty years. Wave heights are usually predicted from pressure records utilizing modified theoretical relationships obtained from classical linear Airy wave theory. This paper utilized Stoke's second order theory to obtain a more accurate expression to relate pressure to wave height. Graphs are presented depicting height versus pressure for various d/L values ranging from shallow water to deep water. Discussion of the empirical correction factor used with linear theory is presented. Keywords: Wave height prediction; Stoke's second theory; Reprints. (jhd)