Modelling Bathymetric Control of Near Coastal Wave Climate. Report 2

摘要

Most of the effort in phase 2 of the study was centered around a study of Braggreflection of waves by nearshore bars. Additional effort was spent in the development of angular spectrum models for intermediate depth wave propagation. Finally, preparations are being made for an extensive laboratory test of wave-induced mean flows in the surfzone, and the associated operation of a passive syphon system driven by the pressure head developed by setup in the surfzone. Each area of progress is discussed in this report. Keywords: Ocean surface waves; Ocean currents; Passive siphon systems; Coastal regions; Ocean models; Wave-current interactions; Numerical models. (EDC)