Nonlinear Transformation of Waves in Finite Water Depth

摘要

The formulation of a nonlinear frequency domain parabolic mild slope model isdetailed. The resulting model describes two dimensional wave transformation and nonlinear coupling between frequency components. Linear dispersion and transformation characteristics are dictated by fully dispersive linear theory, an improvement over weakly dispersive Boussinesq theory. Both the present model and a weakly dispersive nonlinear frequency domain model are compared to laboratory data for both two dimensional wave transformation and pure shoaling. It is found that, in general, data-model comparisons are enhanced by the present model, particularly in instances where the wave condition is outside the shallow water range.