SOPHISTICATED SIMPLICITY:THIS MONTH, UME'S KERBY CRAIG USES JAPANESE TECHNIQUE TO CREATE A WARMING WINTER DISH.

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"WE give ourselves some semi-restriction - if it's not from Japan, it's not native to Australia, or it's not produced in Australia, then we don't use it," Kerby Craig, owner and chef of Ume Restaurant in Sydney's Surry Hills, says.With a resume that includes Tetsuya's, London's La Trompette and Vancouver's Restaurant West and Cibo Trattoria, Craig earned his first SMH Good Food Guide hat at Koi before branching out with his wife, Hiroko Muranishi, to open their own restaurant, Ume, in 2012.