ON BREAKING WAVES AND WAVE-CURRENT INTERACTION IN SHALLOW WATER: A 2DH FINITE ELEMENT MODEL

摘要

A two-dimensional (horizontal plane) coastal and estuarine region model, capable of predicting the combined effects of gravity surface shallow- water waves (shoaling, refraction, diffraction, reflection and breaking), and steady currents, is described and numerical results are compared with those obtained experimentally. Two series of observations within a wave flume and a combined wave-current facility were developed. In the first case, the wave was generated via a hinged paddle located within a deepened section at one end of the channel, as, in the second case, the wave propagating with or against the current was generated by a plunger-type wavemaker; the re-circulating current was introduced via one passing tank connected to a centrifugal pump. Several comparisons for a number of 1D situations and one 2D horizontal plane case are presented.