Numerical Simulations of Rip Currents Under Phase-Resolved Directional Random Wave Conditions

摘要

Recently,Choi et al.(2015) showed that a numerical simulation of the SandyDuck experiment under a directional random wave environment agreed well with the experimental data including the wave height distribution of the random waves,the well-developed longshore current and its energetic fluctuation.Based on the Boussinesq modeling,this study investigates the effect of the alongshore variations,which are induced by not only the field topography but also the phase interaction of multidirectional random waves in the surf zone wave field,on the rip currents.As a result,transient rip currents as well as topographical rip currents cause the complicated surfzone circulation and mixing process due to their interactions in a multi-directional random wave condition while the topographical rip currents are dominant in a monochromatic wave condition.