Prediction of Swell-like High Waves Using Observed Data on the East Coast of Korea

摘要

In this study,we develop an algorithm to predict swell-like high waves on the east coast of Korea using the directional wave gauge which was installed near Sokcho.Using the numerical wave model SWAN,we estimate wave data in open sea from the wave data collected by using the directional wave gauge.Then,using the wave ray method and SWAN model with the open-sea wave data as offshore boundary conditions,we predict the swell-like high waves at several major points on the east coast of Korea.We verify the prediction methods with the SWAN and wave ray methods by comparing predicted data against measured one at Wangdolcho.We can improve the prediction of the swell-like high waves in the east sea of Korea using both the real-time wave measurement system and the present prediction algorithm.