Dynamic drape property evaluation of natural fiber woven fabrics using a novel automatic drape-measuring system

摘要

Quantifying the dynamic drape properties of woven fabrics is an important factor in representing the actual qualities of wearing different materials. While static drape tests are not fully sufficient for measuring the real drapable nature of fabric, performing dynamic drape tests of woven fabric has been a very challenging task for the textile industry. In order to overcome this problem, this study developed an automatic drape-measuring system for woven fabrics. In this study, static and dynamic drapability testing values of spring/summer natural fiber woven fabrics are analyzed. The weights of the tested fabrics range from 11.0 to 18.3 mg/cm~2. The 'Four-in-One' Automatic Measuring System for Dynamic Drape is used to measure fabric drapability. The drape-testing instrument is employed with forward rotation, reciprocating motion, and swinging motion, simulating the changes in the dynamic drape of fabric when people walk at different speeds. The results of this study indicate that the dynamic drape coefficient (Dc) and dynamic drape coefficient of fabric in forward rotation (Dcr) can be used to determine the dynamic drape liveliness of four types of natural fiber woven fabrics in forward rotation, the dynamic drape coefficient with reciprocating motion (Dd) can be used to determine the dynamic drape liveliness of the four fabrics in reciprocating motion, and the dynamic drape coefficient with swinging motion (Dsr) can be used to determine the dynamic drape liveliness of the four fabrics in swinging motion.