Studies on the formation of O/W nano-emulsions, by low-energy emulsification method, suitable for cosmeceutical applications*

摘要

The formation of oil/water (O/W) nano-emulsions suitable for cosmeceutical application was studied. Nanoemulsions were prepared by using phase inversion composition (PIC) method, one of the low-energy emulsification methods. The process consist of stepwise water addition to oil/surfactant mixture, at T = 25℃. Caprylic/ capric triglycerides (GTCC), propylene glycol dicaprylate/ dicaprate (PC) and oleic acid (OA) were applied as an oil phase. Polysorbate 80 was used as the surfactant. Kinetic stability of the nano-emulsions was analyzed by measuring droplet size as a function of time for different oil/surfactant ratio. The particles size distribution was analyzed by means DLS measurement technique (Dynamic Light Scattering), using Zetasizer Nano ZS (Malvern Instruments, UK). One of triterpenoic acid, practically non-water soluble substance was selected as an active and incorporated into the stable formulation. The obtained results proved that the nanoemulsion NE-T80-GTCC-20:80 based on caprylic/capric triglycerides with the oil/surfactant ratio O/S = 2 0:80 and the droplet size r = 25 nm was the most stable one and additionally showed the highest solubilisation capacity for the triterpene.