We've been out for two hours arid I've long lost count. Something flits among the foliage. Faster than you can say 'is it another tanager?', it's caught in the crosshairs of a scope. Squinting into the eyepiece, I meet the gaze of a handsome bird with a sunshine breast, grey and olive feathers and soot-black head emblazoned with a golden crest. " Yellow-Crowned whitestart," I'm told. "Endemic.".
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