On my first day in Socotra, as we walked to what became known as the infinity pool, the sheer improbability of the landscape made me stop and gaze around in wonder. We were following a stony track along a narrow bed of salmon-pink limestone, scalloped and pleated by the elements, with a fast-flowing stream to our left and thrusting peaks ahead. Squished between the rocks or clinging to the sides of them were bottle trees, everyone's favourite living thing on the island.
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