Development of a new in vitro method to evaluate the photoprotective sunscreen activity of plant extracts against high UV-B radiation

摘要

Sunscreen efficiency of biomolecules against UV-B radiation was generally determined in vitro by cosmetic methods which are not well-adapted for routine ecophysiological and bio-guidance studies in plant research laboratories. In this article, we propose a new in vitro method to evaluate the sunscreen photoprotective activity of plant extracts against high UV-B radiation. Because photosynthetic pigments are one of the first targets of UV-B radiation in plants, the experimental design is based on the ability of the tested substances to limit the degradation of sodium magnesium chlorophyllin (SMC), a derivative compound of natural chlorophyll. SMC photodegradation comparatively to natural chlorophyll and related to temperature, concentration and sample solvent were analyzed in order to optimize the experimental parameters. Then, the method was validated by testing nine standard UV filters used in the European cosmetic industry and by comparing results of their activity with those of a reference in vitro procedure. Finally, the method was applied to coastal and marine crude plant extracts. Results have shown that our procedure can be a good alternative to cosmetic methods with a rapid, sensitive and reproducible evaluation of the sunscreen activity of either pure standards or crude plant extracts in small amounts (30 mg).