The default dutch OVEN for most cooks is Le Creuset. It's been that way since the brand showed up in the hands of Julia Child on PBS in the 1970s. But that doesn't mean you should buy one. That French pot may be great for simmering cassoulet, but it's never been displayed at the Louvre or MoMA. It hasn't won four international design awards either. Those tributes belong to this Technicolor gem: Dansk's Koben-style. The elegant enameled pot, the brainchild of Danish designer Jens Quistgaard, was released in 1956 and became a big hit with the mid-mod crowd. Integral to its design is a bit of dinner theater-remove the lid with a flourish and place it on the table, where it instantly converts into a trivet. Order a modern-day recasting of the Kobenstyle in 2-, 4-, and 6-quart sizes and in an array of colors.
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