Modelling of nonlinear surface gravity waves under shallow-water conditions with account of dispersion

摘要

The modelling of nonlinear surface gravity waves under shallow-water conditions with account of dispersion is described in this study. On the basis of the analytic expressions obtained for the horizontal velocity of medium particles, the profile evolution of nonlinear surface gravity waves during its propagation under shallow-water conditions is described. The profiles of surface gravity waves during their propagation in the bay with account of dispersion are given.