Determination of wave energy dissipation factor and numerical simulation of wave height in the surf zone

摘要

Based on the time-dependent mild slope equation including the effect of wave energy dissipation, an expression for the energy dissipation factor is derived in conjunction with the wave energy balance equation. The wave height of regular and irregular waves is numerically simulated by use of the parabolic mild slope equation considering the energy dissipation due to wave breaking. Comparison of numerical results with experimental data shows that the expression for the energy dissipation factor is reasonable. The effects of the wave breaking coefficient on the breaking point and the distribution of wave height after breaking are discussed through the study of a specific experimental topography.