A Boussinesq-type model including wave-breaking terms in both continuity and momentum equations

摘要

In the present work a previously presented Boussinesq-type wave propagation model is extended to account for breaking waves in the surf zone. The model applies to fully dispersive and weakly nonlinear regular and irregular waves. Wave-breaking simulation includes the breaker effects in both the continuity and momentum equations by adding extra dissipative terms. Model results are compared to experimental data as well as to those of model's previous version based on surface roller breaker technique. Some improvement is observed over previous versions of the model in approximating the energy dissipated due to wave-breaking, especially for monochromatic waves.