Interplay of Resonant and Quasi-Resonant Interaction of the Directional Ocean Waves

摘要

Recent experimental study of the evolution of random directional gravity waves in deep water provides new insight into the nature of the spectral evolution of the ocean waves and the relative significance of resonant and quasi -resonant wave interaction. When the directional angle containing half the total energy is broader than -20°, the spectrum evolves following the energy transfer that can be described by the four-wave resonant interaction alone. In contrast, in the case of a directionally confined spectrum, the effect of quasi-resonant wave-wave interaction becomes important, and the wave system becomes unstable. When the temporal change of the spectral shape due to quasi resonance becomes irreversible owing to energetic breaking dissipation, the spectrum rapidly downshifts. Under such extreme conditions, the likelihood of a freak wave is high.