A Discussion on the New Joining Method of a 3-Dimensional Sleeve to a 3-Dimensional Bodice Shell That Is Constructed from Basic Patterns

摘要

胴部モデルから得られた袖ぐり線の情報を基に胴部モデルと袖部モデルの接合の問題を再検討した．このとき，袖は上部，下部に分けて考察した．得られた結果は以下のようである．1．袖下部については，袖モデルの展開図と袖原型の袖山曲線とが一致した原型は取り上げた18穅N中11種であった．この結果は胴部の袖ぐり形状を採用することにより袖モデルが改良されたことを示している．2．袖上部については，E原型を除いて袖モデルの展開図と袖山曲線とが一致したものはなかった．しかし，これは本モデルおよび原型の不合理性を意味するものでは胜湓亭杂啥趣韦ⅳ毪い晦zみを見込んでいるのに対して本袖モデルはいせ込みをダーツに置き換えているためである．言い換えれば両者の違いはそれぞれが想定する胴部立体殻への接合形状の違いを意味すると考察した．3．本袖モデルの展開曲線は袖原型から形成される袖を胴部立体殻に接合したときの形状を評価する指標として有効であることを示した．%Based on the valuable information aquired about the arm hole line of the bodice, we reexamined the joint problem between the 3-dimensional shell of the sleeve and the bodice shell. In the examination we made a sleeve model consisting of two parts (lower and upper). The results obtained were as follows: 1. For the lower part of the sleeve, no fewer than 11 types of basic patterns in the chosen 18 patterns were in accordance with the plane developements of the respective sleeve models. This result tells us that the sleeve model was much improved after using information on the shape of the arm hole of the bodice. 2. For the upper part of the sleeve, only one of the basic patterns accorded with the developed models. But result does not indicate that these models or the basic patterns are unreasonable. This is because each basic sleeve pattern includes deliberately and implicitly some space to make the intricate easing contraction when joined with the bodice shell. Nevertheless, as far as the model is concerned, darts are simply used. In other words, each basic pattern is based on an assumption about the shape when joined to the bodice shell. 3. The study shows that the plane developement curve of this new sleeve model should be adopted as an effective barometer to estimate the shape of a 3-dimensional basic sleeve when joined to the arm hole line of the bodice shell.