Night has fallen on the sea of cortez, and it's so dark I can barely see my three companions, even though they're just a few feet away. We're camping on a sandy cove on the craggy western shore of Espiritu Santo Island, an uninhabited nature reserve near the southeastern end of Mexico's Baja California peninsula. Tonight we have the entire island to ourselves, all 40 sere square miles of it Eroded volcanic cliffs rise steeply behind us; small waves break gently on the beach—above it all, a vault of stars. A perfect desert-island idyll; no one disturbs our solitude. And fhaf s not good.
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