We've been on the move for two days, lugging our sleeping bags, clothes and food in 30-pound backpacks through a green, rugged landscape. Pounding up and down uneven, rocky paths for the last seven hours, it's early evening, and we're not yet done. Dozens of waterfalls vein the mountains that surround us from every direction. For the final, uphill hour of walking a steady drizzle soaks through our clothes. Just as we're arriving at the night's rest stop, a clap of thunder explodes from across the valley, behind us.
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