A one-dimensional model for undertow and longshore current on a barred beach

摘要

A one-dimensional model was developed for undertow and longshore current. The model predicts time- and depth-averaged undertow and longshore current velocities with longshore uniformity in depth, waves and current. It was calibrated with field data obtained over longshore bars at Hazaki Oceanographical Research Sttion (HORS). Verification with the other field measurements and large-scale experiments showed that the present model predicted well the undertow velocities over the longshore bars, while a previous model, calibrated with small-scale experiment data, underestimated the velocities. The verification also showed that although the cross-shore distributions of the longshore current velocity over the longshore bars predicted with the previous model had peak velocities seaward of the bar crests, the distributions predicted with the present model had peaks shoreward of the crests and fitted those measrued in the field.