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Morphological modeling of a nourished bayside beach with a low tide terrace

机译:带有低潮阶的滋养海湾海滩的形态建模

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摘要

We present a simple one-dimensional process-based morphological model for predicting medium-long term beach profile evolution of a bayside beach with a low tide terrace. Bayside beaches are characterized by low wave energy. In regions with a large tidal range, a beach face is slowly eroded due to erosional waves inside the surf zone which shifts along the beach profile over a wide range during a tidal cycle. The model is devel-oped using an existing model framework proposed by Mariotti and Fagherazzi (2010), who formulated a model for sediment suspension and transport due to waves and tidal currents in a tidal flat regime. The new developments in this study include an implementation of the bedload sediment transport and modifica-tion of the suspended load transport for noncohesive particles. The model parameters were calibrated using beach profile data collected over a one-year span at Xiamen Beach. Numerical experiments indicate that waves suspend sediment in the narrow surf zone, inducing pulse-like high sediment concentration in shallow water. The suspended sediment is adverted by the tidal current and wave-induced undertow, causing erosion of the steep beach face at the upper portion and deposition of the flat beach face at the lower portion of a beach profile. The erosion on the upper beach face was not predicted by a bedload-only transport model, suggesting that the sediment suspension associated wave breaking may be the major mechanism for the ero-sion. Tide-only induced sediment transport is insignificant, but tides play a role in distributing the wave-induced erosion over a wide region on a beach profile.
机译:我们提出了一个简单的基于一维过程的形态模型,用于预测具有低潮阶的海湾海滩的中长期海滩剖面演变。海湾海滩的特征是低波能。在潮汐范围大的地区,由于海浪区域内的侵蚀波在潮汐周期内沿着海滩轮廓在很宽的范围内移动,海滩面逐渐受到侵蚀。该模型是使用Mariotti和Fagherazzi(2010)提出的现有模型框架开发的,该模型框架为潮汐状态下的波浪和潮流产生了泥沙悬浮和运输的模型。这项研究的新进展包括实现了床载沉积物的输运以及对非粘性颗粒悬浮负荷输运的修改。使用厦门海滩一年来收集的海滩剖面数据对模型参数进行了校准。数值实验表明,波浪将泥沙悬浮在狭窄的海浪区,在浅水中引起脉冲状的高泥沙浓度。悬浮的泥沙被潮流和波浪引起的底流所吸引,导致陡峭的滩面在上部被侵蚀,而平坦的滩面在下部被沉积。仅靠床载运移模型不能预测海滩上表面的侵蚀,这表明与沉积物相关的波浪破碎可能是侵蚀的主要机制。仅潮汐引起的沉积物迁移是微不足道的,但潮汐在将波浪诱发的侵蚀分布在海滩剖面上的较大区域中发挥作用。

著录项

  • 来源
    《Coastal engineering》 |2013年第8期|23-34|共12页
  • 作者单位

    Center {or Applied Coastal Research, University of Delaware, Newark, DE 19716, USA;

    Third Institute of Oceanography, SOA, Xiamen 361005, China;

    Center {or Applied Coastal Research, University of Delaware, Newark, DE 19716, USA;

    Third Institute of Oceanography, SOA, Xiamen 361005, China;

  • 收录信息 美国《科学引文索引》(SCI);美国《工程索引》(EI);
  • 原文格式 PDF
  • 正文语种 eng
  • 中图分类
  • 关键词

    Morphological model; Bayside beach; Low tide terrace; Xiamen;

    机译:形态模型海湾海滩;退潮露台;厦门;

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