为增强机织面料的立体造型效果,提出了具有较强立体肌理特征的褶裥结构设计与织造方法.针对整体褶裥一次成形织造中存在经纱张力大幅波动的技术难题,通过分析机织整体褶裥的成形原理和过程,分析了整体褶裥成形的关键技术,设计了一种具有自适应功能的送经系统.送经机构设计及产品织造结果表明:褶裥部分织造时,地轴经纱停止送经,但受花经打纬时钢筘往复移动的影响,其张力在45 cN上下波动,而花轴经纱张力在20 cN上下波动,可满足褶裥织造对经纱张力要求,且能实现整体褶裥的高效稳定织造;同时,整体褶裥的每褶长度可在0~23 mm之间变化,具有较明显的立体效果.%In order to enhance the three dimensional(3-D)effect of woven fabrics,this paper presented an integral pleated structure with 3-D characteristics. In terms of technical difficulties in warp tension variation in the weaving process, the paper analyzed shaping principles and the shaping process of integral pleated woven fabrics,and identified key techniques of weaving pleated structures. Additionally, the paper designed an innovative warp let-off mechanism with self-adaptive function. A case study of the warp let-off device design and pleated woven fabric development indicates that in pleated area weaving, lower warp beam is stopped but the tension deviation of lower warp yarns is increased because of the reed friction,and its yarn tension is around 45 cN, while the tension of upper warp yarns is around 20 cN. The tension situation can meet tension requirements of warp yarns and realize effective and stable weaving of pleated fabrics; moreover, the length of each pleat can vary from 0 to 23 cm with significant 3-D effect.
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