化妆品行业通常采用测定角质层水分含量和经表皮失水率来综合评估化妆品改善皮肤屏障的功效,但此法所得数据易受环境等因素影响.研究通过增加角质层NMF(天然保湿因子)的测定从而对传统的评估方法进行补充.选取哈尔滨市面部肌肤干燥的女性志愿者,连续使用保湿产品4周.测试结果表明天气变化对传统皮肤屏障的评估数据会产生影响.角质层NMF中吡咯烷酮羧酸、乳酸、尿素的含量显著性增加(P<0.05),氨基酸类含量略有增加.NMF短期内比较稳定,该方法可以对传统的屏障评估方法起到补充,也可以用于研究化妆品对NMF组成的影响.%Traditionally, the moisture content and the transepidermal water loss were often used together to evaluate the skin barrier function, but the results were easily influenced by environment and other factors. In this paper, the method of additional detecting natural moisturizing factor in stratum corneum was used to complement the traditional methods. The women with dry facial skin feeling in Harbin city were selected to apply the moisturizing products for 4 weeks. The test results showed that the data obtained by traditional assessment methods for skin barrier function was affected by variable weather condition. The contents of pyrrolidone carboxylic acid, lactic acid and urea in NMF increased significantly (P<0.05), and the content of amino acids increased slightly. Because the NMF in stratum corneum is stable in a certain time, thus it can be used as a supplement to traditional assessment methods, and it can also be used to study the composition of the NMF in stratum corneum influenced by cosmetics.
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