Spectral wave transformation model for simulating refraction-diffraction with strongly reflecting coastal structures

摘要

On the basis of the wave action balance equation which incorporates refraction,diffraction,reflection and wave-current interaction,a directional spectral wave transformation model WABED is developed for predicting the irregular wave refraction-diffraction with strongly reflecting structures in coastal regions.In the model,diffraction is taken into account by introducing a term formulated from a parabolic approximation wave equation,and reflection is calculated through a back-marching numerical approach at the reflecting boundary.Two experimental data sets are used to examine the performance of present model with regard to wave characteristics around reflecting coastal structures.One is from a physical experiment at idealized inlet with parallel jetties,while the other is from a laboratory study on a coastal project of the concave breakwater.Reasonably good agreements are found for both cases,revealing the applicability of the present model for predicting combined wave refraction-diffraction processes with strongly reflecting coastal structures.