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Fashionable people, fashionable society: Fashion, gender, and print culture in England 1821--1861.

机译:时尚人士,时尚社会:英国1821--1861年的时尚,性别和印刷文化。

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This dissertation examines fashionable society as a "new" cultural realm in early nineteenth-century England---roughly from 1821 to 1861---in light of contemporary fashion, gender, historical and literary studies, as well as a variety of social theories ranging from Arendt to Bataille. Challenging the predominant view which confuses fashionable society with the aristocratic high society of the ancien regime, my thesis retrieves fashionable society as a discrete, dynamic, and cross-class entity. As a mobile institution, fashionable society was neither aristocratic nor bourgeois and yet integrated the values and interests of both in tandem with local circumstances. Compared with eighteenth-century polite society, fashionable society was characterized by a strengthened transnational nature; a stronger emphasis on the body; a special logic of space; and a versatile politics of vision, incivility and open exclusivity. With these characteristics, fashionable society functioned as an important means to the peaceful re-distribution of power and the re-structuring of early nineteenth-century English society. As a special crowd and a unique public that bore a symbiotic relationship with the bourgeois public---Habermasian and otherwise---fashionable society embodied and enacted a third sphere that both made possible and destabilized the public/private division. Emerging in a gendered process, fashionable society also sustained a flexible femininity and masculinity that developed in the space of possibility between binary distinctions such as the public man/private woman, the bourgeois and the aristocratic, the inner and the outer. A closer look at fashionable femininity and masculinity reveals the key role of fashion in the transformation of gender norms into gender realities and in facilitating the exchange among different capitals---gender, class, imperial power, colonial wealth, etc.---in tune with current exigencies. While fashionable society depended on the culture and technology of print for its sustenance, it also set in motion an entire problematic of fashion representation that bore directly on Victorian literary experiments and especially on the development of the domestic novel, such as illustrated by Charles Dickens's Bleak House.
机译:本文根据当代时尚,性别,历史和文学研究以及各种社会理论,将时尚社会视为19世纪早期英国(大约在1821年至1861年)的“新”文化领域。从Arendt到Bataille。挑战使时尚社会与上古政权的贵族上流社会混淆的主流观点,我的论文将时尚社会作为一个离散,动态和跨阶级的实体进行检索。作为一个流动的机构,时尚社会既不是贵族也不是资产阶级,而是将两者的价值和利益与当地情况相结合。与18世纪的礼貌社会相比,时尚社会的特点是跨国性得到加强。更加强调身体;空间的特殊逻辑;以及视野开阔,不拘小节和开放排他性的多面政治。具有这些特征的时髦社会成为和平重新分配权力和重构19世纪初英国社会的重要手段。作为一个特殊的人群和一个独特的公众,与资产阶级的公众(哈贝马斯和其他)有着共生关系,时尚社会体现并制定了第三个领域,这既使公共/私人分裂成为可能,也使不稳定。在社会性别化进程中,时尚社会还保持了灵活的女性气质和阳刚之气,这种性别空间在二元区别(例如公共男人/私人女人,资产阶级和贵族,内在和外在)之间的可能性范围内发展。仔细研究时尚女性气质和男性气质,可以发现时尚在将性别规范转变为性别现实以及促进不同资本之间的交换中所起的关键作用-性别,阶级,帝国权力,殖民地财富等。调整当前的紧急情况。尽管时髦社会依赖于印刷品的文化和技术,但它也引发了整个时尚表现问题,这些问题直接取决于维多利亚时代的文学实验,尤其是国内小说的发展,例如查尔斯·狄更斯的《荒凉》所说明的屋。

著录项

  • 作者

    Li, Sumiao.;

  • 作者单位

    University of Michigan.;

  • 授予单位 University of Michigan.;
  • 学科 History European.; Womens Studies.; Literature English.
  • 学位 Ph.D.
  • 年度 2008
  • 页码 280 p.
  • 总页数 280
  • 原文格式 PDF
  • 正文语种 eng
  • 中图分类 欧洲史;社会学;
  • 关键词

  • 入库时间 2022-08-17 11:38:31

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