Examine the Role of Different Actors Across the Textile -Fashion Supply Chain to Understand the Issues Regarding Growth of Eco-Labeled Sustainable Textile Products

摘要

The general definition of 'ecology' in the perspective of textiles is complex and diverse and 'ecology' is often used in loose sense. The textile industry is considered one of the most ecologically harmful, polluting and therefore has enough attention from all. Each actor of supply chain is affecting the environment negatively at different level with different intensities; Significant water use, toxicity from fertilizer, pesticide and herbicide use, energy use and GHG emissions associated with fertilizer generation and irrigation systems from conventional cotton growing, Water use, toxicity, hazardous waste and effluent associated with production stage pre-treatment chemicals, dyes and finishes, energy use and generation of greenhouse gas (GHG) emissions from washing (water heating) and drying of clothing. This research has sought to examine the role of each actor of supply chain like textile and dyes-chemical manufacturer, textile buyers, certification body & ecological textile testing laboratory to become more sustainable. The literature review has investigated the need for sustainability in textiles, social and eco-logical impact and carbon Foot print of textile-fashion industry. Moreover the most commonly used sustainable textile fibres like organic cotton may reduce the impact on soil and further wet processing as per standards like GOTS, REACH, and Oeko-Tex may reduce the impact on environment. Further literature review has explored eco-labelling to understand its benefits, impact and significance on textile - fashion industry as well as on consumer to become more sustainable. To understood above issues, qualitative method has been used and data collected through in-depth semi-structured, telephonic and computer assisted interview techniques, since it enables the generation of 'thick descriptions' and depth of information required for the formation of the conceptual framework. The research findings indicate 'how' and 'why' each actor of supply chain should produce sustainable textiles products (STP). To become sustainable manufacturer need to find out products' biggest impacts; they have to be transparent; they should bolster their claims with independent verification, by avoiding making the claims 'in a vacuum', they need to Educate, Enable, and Encourage the consumer; and try to Reduce, Reuse, and Recycle. Certification and then ecolabelling the product is the only way to call the product sustainable; however various eco-logs are creating confusion within market and consumer. There are wider implications of the research like how much consumer knows about eco-labels, and eco-textile standards. The shopping behaviour and attitudes of STP consumers have not yet been analysed through actual purchase data. Further issues also not yet addressed include: 1) Are there any significant health benefits of STP especially Organic Cotton to human being?2) Compared to conventional cotton, if organic cotton saves 171% of cost and increases 200% farmers income then why there is a need to pay premium to the farmer? 3) Why are eco-standards not mandatory throughout the textiles industry?