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Nonlinear Analysis of Wave Energy Dissipation and Energy Transfer of Directional Breaking Waves in Deep Water

机译:深水中方向断裂波浪能量耗散和能量转移的非线性分析

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Wave energy dissipation and energy transfer among wave components during the directional wave breaking are investigated experimentally. Directional breaking waves in deep water were simulated by focusing the multi-frequency and multi-directional wave components at a designed location based on constant wave amplitude and constant wave steepness frequency spectrum. The incipient and plunging breakers with the same spectral characteristics were generated by applying the different scale factors on wave amplitude. The time series of surface wave elevation were measured around the wave focusing point using a wave gauge array to examine the variation of directional spreading function. The free wave components of a directional wave train are separated from bound wave components by nonlinear decomposition based on directional hybrid wave model accurate up to second order. The local free wave components derived from nonlinear decomposition still include directional dispersion effect. A spatial variation of free wave packet due to directional dispersion is estimated by comparing incipient breaking wave packets at corresponding locations. When the bound wave components and directional dispersion effect are removed from the plunging breaking wave train, a variation of the directional wave spectrum of resultant free wave components before and after the wave breaking is solely responsible to wave energy dissipation and transfer between free wave components. By comparing free wave components of a plunging breaking wave packet before and after the wave breaking, the characteristics of energy dissipation and energy transfer caused by wave breaking are investigated and their dependences on frequency are analyzed.
机译:实验研究了定向波破碎期间波部件之间的波能量耗散和能量传递。通过在基于恒波幅度和恒定波陡频频谱的设计位置聚焦多频和多向波分量来模拟深水中的方向破碎波。通过在波幅度上应用不同的比例因子来产生具有相同光谱特性的初始和泄漏断路器。使用波形仪阵列围绕波形聚焦点测量表面波仰角的时间序列,以检查方向扩展功能的变化。方向波动系的自由波分量通过基于方向混合波模型的非线性分解与绑定波分量分离,准确到二阶。源自非线性分解的本地自由波组分仍然包括定向色散效应。通过比较在相应位置处的初始断裂波分组来估计由于方向色散引起的自由波分组的空间变化。当从漏洞断开波动列车移除束缚波分量和方向色散效果时,波断裂之前和之后的所得自由波组分的定向波谱的变化仅负责波能量耗散和自由波部件之间的转移。通过比较波断裂之前和之后的浮动断开波包的自由波分量,研究了由波破裂引起的能量耗散和能量转移的特性,并分析它们对频率的依赖性。

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