THE KNITWEAR PARADOX: HANDLE AND BULK VERSUS PILLING, WHERE IS THE BALANCE?

摘要

Pilling is recognised as a major problem for the knitwear industry worldwide. The problem of pilling has been exacerbated in the last 50 years or so due to the fashion trend toward soft handle and warmth-without-weight knitwear products. Knitted fabric piling is a complex process, influenced by a large number of variables, from fibre properties, yarn and fabric constructions, to finishing treatments. The design of yarns and fabrics is generally governed by considerations other than pilling propensity, in the first instance, and actual pilling performance is determined as a secondary consideration by testing and trials of the finished fabric and garment. Anti-pilling treatments often fail due to their negative impacts on desirable knitwear properties, namely handle, bulk and next-to-skin comfort. This paper presents some recent work at Canesis (formerly the Wool Research Organisation of New Zealand) on the scientific understanding of fibre security in yarn and fabric structures and the mechanics of knitwear pilling and bulking, as well as the influence of yarn structural characteristics on fabric handle, prickle, bulk and pilling. A number of novel yarn structures and processing technologies to achieve warmth-without-weight, reduced prickle, attractive handle and pilling reduction developed by Canesis in recent years are also discussed.