A Highly Nonlinear Boussinesq Wave Model of Improved Dispersion Characteristics

摘要

In the present study a modified Boussinesq-type model is derived toaccount for propagation of regular and irregular waves in twohorizontal dimensions. An improvement of the linear and nonlinearcharacteristics of the model is obtained by optimizing the coefficientsof each term in the momentum equation, expanding in this way itsapplicability in very deep waters and thus overcoming a dominantshort-coming of most likewise models. The values of the coefficientswere obtained by an inverse method in such a way to satisfy exactly thedispersion relation in terms of both first and second order analyse. Themodified model was applied to simulate the propagation of regular andirregular waves in one horizontal dimension, in a variety of bottomprofiles, such as constant depth, mild slope, submerged obstacles. Thesimulations are compared with experimental data and analytical results,indicating very good agreement in most cases.