The doctor is in and so's the cork

摘要

For more than 20 years Penfolds has been staging clinics around the world to check on the state of their wines. And as the wines become more valuable, the clinics are assuming greater importance. Felicity Carter rolled up to the London clinic (sans bouteille) to see what all the fuss was about.A COUPLE stands in front of a table with three bottles on it. The woman shakes very slightly. "This is worse than when I had my first child," she says. "It's quite emotional."In front of them a man is inserting two Screwpulls simultaneously into a cork, to ease it ever so gently out of the bottle. Not just any bottle - a 1964 Penfolds Grange. He takes his time opening it.