It was difficult to see the view from the panoramic terrace as the fifth coachload of tourists arrived at the Dora Observatory in South Korea, jostling to gawp at the evil empire to the north. A long rank of coin-operated telescopes stood lined up, pointing towards North Korea like a battery of guns poised to fire, while loud-speakers pumped out garish K-Pop tunes at full volume. 'You'll notice there are fewer trees in the north', said one American tourist, as crowds of seine-stick wielding visitors posed for photos. 'That's because people there are so hungry they have to eat them.'
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